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The world of cosmetics loves novelty, novel particles, innovative complexes. However, in this race for always newer and more efficient, certain assets resist and do not take a wrinkle. This is the case with retinol: "Considered to be one of the most powerful anti-aging active ingredients, this molecule belonging to the retinoid family - more commonly called vitamin A - is found in our creams and other serums thanks to its properties. resurfacing ”. In any case, this is what Vanessa, France Training Manager at Elizabeth Arden, a New York cosmetics brand, explains to us. With it, we take stock of this cosmetic active ingredient that promises to give our skin a facelift (and not only)!
Read also: Aesthetic
medicine: "My neck was very wrinkled"
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF RETINOL FOR THE SKIN?
"It is scientifically proven that the action of retinol
occurs both on the surface of the skin - also called the epidermis - and in
depth - the dermis, in order to combat the various signs of skin aging",
indicates the expert. Together, we list his superpowers that we can not resist.
Prevent and fight against wrinkles
Active antioxidant, retinol participates in the fight
against free radicals - in particular formed by exposure to UV rays from the
sun, pollution and other external factors - responsible for premature aging of
the skin. Thus, in our anti-aging creams , it allows, if used regularly, to
prevent and reduce wrinkles and fine lines that we cannot see. The surface of
the skin is smoothed.
Regain firm skin
“More in depth, its presence contributes to the increase in
the number of fibroblasts and therefore to better production of collagen,
elastin and hyaluronic acid”. The skin is then more plump, denser, firmer. In
addition, it regains its flexibility.
Regain radiance
Adopting retinol accelerates cell renewal by causing a
peeling effect. In other words, the dead cells located on the surface of the
skin fall more quickly under its action. We observe a softer, smoother and more
uniform skin. The radiance of the complexion is visibly improved.
Erase pigment spots
"Retinol also plays a role in regulating the synthesis
of melanin, this pigment at the origin of pigment spots ". Indeed, over time, it allows to erase
the signs of hyperpigmentation, in other words brown spots.
Also read: I have spots on the skin, what should I do?
Fight acne
Last but not least, this active ingredient is also known to
help oily skin and get rid of acne . It reduces inflammation of the sebaceous
glands (the source of sebum production) and unclogs clogged pores. Goodbye unsightly
buttons.
HOW TO INTRODUCE RETINOL IN OUR BEAUTY ROUTINE?
Even if today, some retinol treatments are designed for
daytime use, we prefer to integrate it into our evening routine. Why ? Because
retinol is a powerful active (long criticized, now adjusted) and it is good to
avoid photosensitization. Indeed, its keratolytic action refines the epidermis
which makes it more vulnerable to UV rays. It is therefore more judicious to
start a retinol cure in winter. And if you absolutely want to use it in the
morning, you must adopt it with a broad spectrum protection index (minimum
SPF30).
Retinol treatments are used on the neck, décolleté and the
entire face (even the contours of the eyeswith appropriate care). It is
recommended to go there step by step. We therefore start with "one
application every other evening in order to give the skin time to improve its
tolerance," explains the expert. After two weeks, if the skin does not
seem irritated or sensitized, we can increase the frequency and use our retinol
treatment every night ”. Be careful, however: “it is not uncommon to feel
slight discomfort, which is even usual during the first applications,
especially if the skin is dry and sensitive. They indicate that the product is
starting to work. This should not be a cause for concern. The sensations
subside with regular use. This is called the 'retinization' period ”. If the
side effects are too strong or persist, consult your dermatologist.
AT WHAT AGE CAN YOU START USING IT?
As the anti-aging active ingredient par excellence,
"retinol is commonly recommended for marked and mature skin",
explains the expert. "However, it is a received idea" she continues.
But at what age to start an anti-wrinkle cream then? Retinol care can be
included from the age of 25/30 years. In addition to reducing the signs of
aging, it is excellent for preventing them.
IS IT SUITABLE FOR ALL SKIN TYPES?
As mentioned previously, retinol has long been criticized
for its side effects (tightness, stinging, redness and sometimes even desquamation.).
Sensitive skin was therefore deprived of it. But today, we have to take with a
little distance the bad reputation that we have given him. Yes, in order not to
miss out on the multiple benefits of this active ingredient, cosmetic and
laboratory brands have in recent years developed formulations so that retinol
is applicable to all skin types. We say yes! “At Elizabeth Arden, we have
incorporated micro-encapsulated retinol into our latest innovation“ RETINOL
Ceramide Eye Contour Cream ”so that it diffuses more gradually into the skin.
This optimizes its action and efficiency. Retinol has also been combined with
other anti-aging active ingredients - such as ceramides - to reduce its
sensitizing power, ”explains the expert. However, if your skin is too
sensitive,
WHAT ARE THE PRECAUTIONS TO TAKE WITH THIS ANTI-AGING
ACTIVE?
Retinol is sensitive to air and light. This is why it is
important to respect a few principles (in addition to its recommended use in
the evening) to benefit from all its effectiveness: we opt for products with
airtight packaging, or even opaque, in order to protect the formula well. In
addition, it is avoided to associate it with products containing alcohol such
as certain tonic lotions, certain products derived from vitamin A or even
exfoliating ingredients. The goal ? Avoid any risk of irritation, dryness or
allergic reactions. If in doubt, the advice of a doctor is strongly
recommended. Last but not least, retinol care is not recommended for pregnant
women. Now that we know all the secrets of this active ingredient with
beneficial properties for the skin, we test?
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